Recently, the level of excitement surrounding new watch releases has reached unprecedented heights, far surpassing what was typical in the recent past. Some watches, even with limited runs in the hundreds, sell out in seconds, bringing joy to the lucky buyers and frustration to those who missed out. It’s a highly competitive market out there, and the secondhand market can be even more chaotic. However, this discussion is centered on MING Watches and specifically, the 17.09 Blue. After waiting for an extended period, I finally obtained this timepiece. Now, it’s time to evaluate whether it was worth the effort and delay.

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About the brand

MING Watches, a Malaysian-based brand, has been a major contributor to this recently-developed watch trend. Thus, I decided to take part in the race for the 17.09 model and experience the whole thing for myself, ready for whatever challenges that might occur. MING is a group of six aficionados from all over the globe, led by Ming Thein, a photographer, designer, business strategist, and watch enthusiast. Since their establishment in 2017, they have released 43 diverse models and have been applauded for their work by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève four times, which is quite an excellent accomplishment for such a small team. The demand for their watches increases with each launch, and the number of watches being released is limited. This has caused a lot of issues, such as watches selling out quickly, or credit card payments not going through, as reported in various forums.

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Overview of the watch

The MING 17.09 Blue comes in a two-part box that includes a canvas bag, which houses a leather travel case, which encloses the main item. When it comes to watches like this, our initial opinion of them can be deceptive due to the anticipation leading up to the purchase. We may think of it as more exclusive and invaluable, causing us to have a biased perspective. Nevertheless, I will strive to keep a level head in my evaluation.

The MING 17.09 is first-rate and of great quality, right off the bat. Having experimented with various small-named watches, this one clearly stands out. Its construction is outstanding and it is perceptibly hefty and strong when held. 

For the first time in a MING model usually categorized as an “entry-level” timepiece, the signature laser-etched and luminescent crystal tech has been included. The markers on the crystal have been cut with a laser and filled with Super-LumiNova X1 for a more captivating appearance and extra depth. On the lower part of the dial, there are two sword-shaped hands that have been lined with the same luminescence as the markers. The blue dial is a two-part design, with a brushed ring located on the outskirts and a Clous de Paris pattern inside which captures light in a mesmerizing fashion. Although it wasn’t handmade with a rose engine, it has a comparable visual effect. The multiple layers of this watch, comprising the hands, make up six levels, giving it a sense of profundity like nothing else I have experienced before. 

Crafted from 316L stainless steel, this watch case showcases a combination of polished and brushed finishes. The top of the dial boasts a beautiful polish that transitions to brushed finishing on the sides, culminating in a solid case back. Notably, the case boasts MING’s signature flared lugs, spaced 20 mm apart, which exhibit meticulous attention to detail with fine bevelling between the polished and brushed finishes. The brushed, signed crown resembles a train wheel when viewed head-on, providing a fitting touch. Although the crown is not screw-down, it maintains a water resistance rating of 100 meters through the use of triple crown gaskets.

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The movement

At the center of the watch is the cal. 330.M1 movement, uniquely designed for MING by Schwarz-Etienne and derived from Sellita SW330-2. The watchmakers at Schwarz-Etienne modified the movement by adding an intriguing complication: an independent jumping hour hand. Unlike conventional setting methods, this feature lets you adjust the hour without interrupting the watch’s operation or compromising timekeeping accuracy. 

While the value of this complication on a watch lacking GMT functionality or a running second hand may be debatable, I found it quite useful on a recent flight when I needed to quickly advance the hour hand without fussing over the minute hand. While the jumping hour hand may not be an essential feature, it adds an element of fun to an already interesting watch. The movement also features a 42-hour power reserve, a 28,800vph frequency, hacking seconds, and is regulated through a 250-hour test programme.

This MING watch comes with a strap made by Jean Rousseau Paris using Alcantara, a synthetic material known for its durability and suede-like texture. The strap has a blue rubber lining and a signed and polished buckle. Its quick-release, curved spring bar helps it fit snugly around the watch case. The watch has a 38mm diameter and 10mm thickness, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm, making it a perfect fit for a 16cm wrist. Despite initial concerns about the flared lugs, they don’t cause any discomfort. This versatile watch can be worn casually or dressed up, making it a great choice for everyday wear except for those with unusually large wrists.

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Final remarks

Did the MING 17.09 live up to the hype and long wait? Absolutely. Despite some ordering issues and a long wait, the watch’s high build quality and attention to detail, combined with its unique design language, make it worth the investment. Although it’s the last of the entry-level 17 series watches from MING, we can only hope that they’ll introduce another reasonably priced line in the future. Maybe I’ll see you in the (virtual) queue for that one!