During a recent experience with the DuFrane Bergstrom pilot watch, I was impressed by the brand’s ability to stand out in the American-made micro brand space. DuFrane’s aim for classic pilot watch aesthetics and a strong American identity is evident in the Bergstrom Matte Bronze watch. As a newcomer to the market, DuFrane has made an admirable effort to create a timepiece that stands out in the sub-$1,000 category. In this review, I will delve into my thoughts on the Bergstrom Matte Bronze watch and provide insights into the brand behind it.

The case

The Bergstrom timepiece features a Swiss ETA movement and a 316L stainless steel case with a fixed coin-edged bezel and custom engraved exhibition case back. The watch’s diameter is 41.5mm, and it is slightly larger when the crown is included. Lum-Tec, another brand under the same company, also offers watches similar to the Bergstrom, such as their Combat B line of timepieces.

The dial

DuFrane provides customers with a choice between a stainless steel or matte bronze case, and also offers a standard or horizon dial configuration. The difference between the two is the small seconds register, with the horizon dial resembling an altitude indicator found in an airplane cockpit.

In contrast, Bergstrom features a black matte dial with large, easily readable Arabic numeral hour markers that I particularly enjoy. Additionally, the vintage aesthetic is enhanced by the presence of “poire squelette” hands, which may have been influenced by pilot watches from the 1930s and 1940s created by well-known brands such as Longines, Zenith, and Lemania.

DuFrane Bergstrom Pilot Watch with black dial recommendation

The movement

The ETA 6498-1 movement is utilized in the Bergstrom watch. Introduced in 1967, this manual wind movement has a non-hacking feature and can store power for up to 46 hours. Its design bears similarities to the ETA 6498 pocket watch movement, which has been in existence since the 1950s. One distinguishing characteristic is the placement of the seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position, a feature shared with other timepieces such as the Highline Aviator series by Montana Watch Company and the 150-P by RGM.

Interacting with the Bergstrom was a unique experience for me as a collector of watches, particularly because it’s a manual wind watch. It’s unfortunate that manual watches are now considered niche since they’re not commonly used anymore. As someone who’s used to wearing automatic watches every day, I sometimes found myself looking at my wrist and noticing that the time was off. I’ve become so accustomed to wearing and setting automatic watches that I rarely worry about adjusting the time, unless the watch has been off my wrist for a while. According to DuFrane founder Steven Lee, some people have complained about their watch not working. He kindly reminds them that the Bergstrom is a manual wind watch and needs to be wound daily. Steven plans on using manual movements for his watches in the future to maintain a vintage feel. Personally, I believe that the manual winding movement enhances the charm of the watch.

Personal Experience

I had the opportunity to experience the Bergstrom in a unique way since it is a manual wind watch. Unlike most of the watches in my collection, the manual watch allows for a deeper level of interaction. I recently lost my only manual watch while on vacation, and wearing the Bergstrom reminded me of how much I missed the experience of having a watch that becomes a part of who you are. Unfortunately, manual watches have become somewhat of a niche item, and they are not as commonly used as they once were. I have become so accustomed to wearing automatic watches on a daily basis that sometimes I would glance at my wrist and notice that the time was off.

As a watch enthusiast, I have developed a habit of setting my timepieces and wearing them without much concern about readjusting them unless they have been taken off my wrist for a prolonged period. I actually came across an interesting fact about the DuFrane watch brand, shared by its founder Steven Lee. Apparently, some customers have reported issues with their watches stopping abruptly. Upon investigation, Steven realized that these customers had purchased the Bergstrom model, which is a manual wind watch that requires daily winding. To preserve the vintage aesthetic of his watches, Steven has decided to continue using manual movements in his future designs. Personally, I find the manual winding feature to be an endearing characteristic of the watch, adding to its overall appeal.

The vintage charm of the watch is complemented by the static coin-edged bezel that enhances its overall appearance. The side view of the timepiece reveals the signature DuFrane logo etched on the 3mm crown, which also increases the case size to 44.5mm. Despite my usual aversion to larger watches, the curved lugs and leather strap of the Bergstrom make it feel more compact and comfortable on the wrist.

DuFrane Bergstrom Pilot Watch for men recommendation

 

Brand Overview

Let’s discuss the DuFrane brand, which may be new to many of you and is the focus of this review. The founder of DuFrane Watches, Steven Lee, recently made a tough decision to sell his Porsche 993 in order to support the development of the brand. While it was bittersweet, he recognized that starting a new watch brand comes with its own set of costs.

DuFrane Watches aims to differentiate themselves from other American micro-brands in the pilot watch market by offering both affordability and style. For example, RGM and Montana Watch Company also make pilot watches using the same movement as DuFrane, but their prices are significantly higher. RGM’s watches start at $3,000, while Montana Watch Company’s series ranges from $3,000 to $30,000. Montana Watch Company is targeting collectors who are willing to pay a premium for an heirloom piece, whereas DuFrane is focused on creating a pilot watch that is accessible to everyone.

If you are acquainted with the city of Austin, then you must have heard the name Bergstrom. The name is ubiquitous in Austin, from the decommissioned Air Force Base to the Austin-Bergstrom International Airport. Captain John Bergstrom was Austin’s first casualty in WWII. After his death, Lyndon B. Johnson, who was then a US Representative from Texas, lobbied to rename the Air Force base after him as a tribute. On March 3, 1943, the base was officially renamed the Bergstrom Army Airfield. Steven Lee, as a way to pay tribute to Austin, has named his first line of watches after Bergstrom, something he intends to do with all future releases.

DuFrane Watches has made an impressive debut with their first watch, the Bergstrom. This pilot watch has a vintage feel that might interest you if you are in the market for one. Depending on the options, you can purchase it for $875-$950 on their website, with this model being at the upper end of the price range.