IWC introduced the Aquatimer as their inaugural professional diver’s timepiece, making its grand entrance at the 1967 Basel Fair. Sporting dual crowns, one for time adjustment and the other for controlling the internal dive scale bezel, it showcased a timeless design that remains captivating even in the present day.
Fast forward nearly five decades, and IWC continues to craft exceptional Aquatimer models. The year 2014 witnessed a complete overhaul of the entire collection, and this review centers on the fundamental Aquatimer Automatic Ref. 3920, available in four delightful variations. Retaining the pure aesthetics and internal bezel of its predecessor, this time, the control over the internal bezel has ingeniously transitioned to an external bezel, revolutionizing the design. IWC holds the patent for this pioneering feature, which elegantly combines simplicity with complex engineering.
The Aquatimer transcends the boundaries of a mere sports watch and seamlessly complements both formal attire and casual beachwear. However, at its core, it remains an indispensable diving instrument, adhering to rigorous standards.
The International Organization for Standardization mandates the ISO 6425, which outlines the essential criteria for a true dive watch. Accordingly, an authentic dive timepiece must: a) possess water resistance to a minimum depth of 100 meters, b) include a time controller, and c) comply with guidelines pertaining to luminosity, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and band durability. Rest assured, all Aquatimer models fulfill these demanding requirements.
The Bezel
Uniquely, the entire lineup of Aquatimer watches showcases the innovative “SafeDive” external/internal rotating bezel, which sets it apart from other timepieces. Its operation is simple: by rotating the external steel bezel, similar to a regular dive bezel, the internal bezel (also known as the flange) with the printed diving scale automatically rotates in sync.
IWC states that the internal rotating bezel is designed to turn only in a counterclockwise direction due to safety considerations. This feature ensures that the dive time, which indicates the time for a diver to resurface without undergoing decompression stops, is not exceeded even if the external rotating bezel is unintentionally moved.
This sophisticated system relies on a special sliding clutch, which is located on the left side of the watch case. While this complex system has a few potential drawbacks compared to a traditional bezel configuration, such as the clutch housing protruding on the left side of the case and being a proprietary system that may incur higher repair costs, I believe the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. The feature itself is undeniably impressive. During my week-long experience, I did not experience any discomfort on my wrist due to the housing. Additionally, the rotation of the bezel feels incredibly smooth and accurate.
The Dial
Drawing inspiration from Schaffhausen’s pioneering diver’s watch, the new Aquatimers exhibit notable enhancements, featuring larger applied indexes and generously proportioned hour and minute hands. Additionally, the bright coatings used on the hour markers, bezel, and the hands for hours, minutes, and seconds guarantee excellent clarity, even in total darkness. Undeniably, the emphasis is on providing optimal timekeeping functionality.
The chapter ring of the watch displays a minute/second track which makes it easy to read the time quickly. There are two dial variations available, black and silver-plated. The black dial has green luminous paint on the hour markers, bezel, and hands, while the silver dial has white paint. Both dials exhibit remarkable aesthetics, making it a challenging choice to favor one over the other, in my personal opinion.
The Case
This Aquatimer Automatic model is crafted with a sturdy stainless steel case accompanied by a distinctive notched steel bezel. This timepiece boasts a compact design, measuring 42 mm in diameter and 14 mm in height, making it the smallest among the remarkable IWC diver’s watches. The crown is located on the right side of the case, and the left side accommodates a mechanical sliding clutch. This system ensures the SafeDive bezel rotates without any glitches or interruptions.
Impeccably blending aesthetics with functionality, the majority of the watch’s exterior features brushed surfaces, complemented by delicate polished accents visible on the lug edges, the crown’s facade, the top and underside of the bezel, as well as the clutch housing.
As a dive watch, meticulous attention has been given to ensure utmost water resistance. The crown is impeccably locked, and the caseback is meticulously screwed in place, providing an exceptional water resistance rating of 300 meters (approximately 1,000 feet).
A crystal is a safeguard for the dial of every contemporary timepiece, warding off dirt, grime, and even saltwater intrusion. Similarly, the Aquatimer features a convex sapphire crystal coated with anti-reflective properties on both sides, diligently shielding the internal dive scale from these environmental elements.
The Movement
The Aquatimer Automatic timepiece embodies a caliber 30120 movement, characterized by its automatic winding mechanism, 21-jewel configuration, 42-hour power reserve, date display, and central hacking capability. While drawing inspiration from the robust and dependable ETA 2892 movement, IWC has implemented its own distinctive modifications. However, apart from these enhancements, there are no notable features to elaborate upon. It is important to note that the Aquatimer Automatic stands as the most affordable diver’s watch within the collection, as other models incorporating an in-house movement are considerably more expensive.
This remarkable timepiece is available for purchase at a retail price of $5,750. The IWC watch is equipped with a black natural rubber strap that comes with a signed steel pin and buckle. Alternatively, customers can opt for the stainless steel bracelet variation priced at $6,750, which includes a convenient fold-over clasp. Notably, both the strap and bracelet are equipped with IWC’s innovative patented bracelet quick-change system, allowing effortless strap interchangeability without the need for any additional tools.
Final Notes
The 2014 Aquatimer Automatic by IWC pays homage to its origins while flawlessly integrating contemporary watch features and advantages. Whether in sleek black or elegant silver, the dial exudes a remarkable aesthetic, enhanced by its prominent markers and hands, ensuring effortless readability. Furthermore, the distinctive technical attributes of the bezel, utilized across all the latest Aquatimer models, set it apart from any other dive watch available today.
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