Oris has established a strong reputation for delivering timepieces of exceptional quality at affordable prices. While they may not compete with the utmost luxury watchmakers, Oris sets itself apart by offering reasonable pricing as a defining characteristic. Their watches are renowned for their reliability, integrity, and durability, making them highly appealing to a wide range of prospective customers.
Situated in Hölstein, the brand has gained particular recognition for its diver’s watches throughout the years. This specific category demands sturdy craftsmanship and clear readability. Oris introduced its inaugural diver’s watch in the 1960s and achieved a significant breakthrough in the late 1990s with the Full Steel model, which served as the cornerstone for the iconic Aquis collection.
The Aquis collection was officially unveiled in 2011 and immediately garnered praise from the global watch community. Its legible display, well-balanced design, and tactile bezel and crown were highly lauded features. Notably, the Aquis offered practicality and impressive water resistance, meeting the needs of active individuals seeking a reliable diver’s watch.
What set Oris apart was their astute realization that many individuals choose diver’s watches for their aesthetic appeal rather than their actual diving capabilities. While the Oris Aquis excelled underwater, it seamlessly blended with everyday attire, whether it be casual or formal, making it a versatile timepiece.
In 2017, Oris revisited the Aquis collection to refine its appearance. The bracelet and lugs underwent a sleek redesign, while the hands and indices were made more prominent for enhanced legibility. Subtle modifications were also made to the crown and its protectors, resulting in a cleaner and more refined timepiece.
Over time, the Oris Aquis collection has expanded, offering a diverse array of models to cater to different preferences. Recently, the Swiss brand introduced the captivating Oris Aquis Date with a stunning green dial, further enriching their range of choices.
The dial
I was immediately captivated by the Oris Aquis Date in this particular version, mainly because of its captivating green dial. The lush shade of green is a rarity in the world of watches, providing a sense of uniqueness. I can vividly recall a few years ago when I first noticed a handful of blue dials and pondered if it was just a passing fad. However, today, blue dials have become commonplace and an integral part of watchmaking. It will be intriguing to observe whether green dials will follow a similar path.
The hour and minute hands, in a silver tone, make a bold statement and are enhanced with white luminescent fill for optimal visibility. The central sweep seconds hand features a luminescent lollipop, further aiding readability. Despite its affordable price, Oris has paid great attention to detail on the dial.
The hours are marked by raised, silver-toned indices, adding depth and elegance to the dial’s surface. The luminescent treatment of the hands and indices emits a soothing blue glow in low-light conditions. Crisp white strokes are positioned between each index, ensuring easy reading of minutes and seconds.
Located above the 6 o’clock position, a date display showcases contemporary white numerals in a sans-serif font against a black date disc. The clarity of this feature is excellent. While some traditionalists may critique the mismatch between the color of the date disc and the dial, it’s important to consider that creating a unique disc for this model would have increased costs. In my opinion, Oris made a reasonable compromise to maintain an attractive price point.
The dial is adorned with a mesmerizing sunray pattern. When illuminated directly, it exudes a vibrant character, sparkling and showcasing a metallic allure. Conversely, in certain lighting conditions, the dial takes on a brooding, almost black appearance. It is this dynamic and ever-changing nature of the dial that enhances the overall aesthetics of the Oris Aquis Date.
The case
Oris has recently acknowledged the preferences of potential buyers of the Aquis, who may desire a smaller case size, by introducing a 39.5mm option. Personally, I appreciate the larger 43.5mm case for its generous proportions, but I commend Oris for offering a wider selection to prospective wearers. Presently, the green dial variant is exclusively available with the larger case, but if this model gains popularity, Oris might reconsider their stance.
The Oris Aquis Date provides multiple strap options, including leather, rubber, or a stainless steel bracelet. However, only the latter two options are suitable for underwater activities. During my experience with the press model, I had the opportunity to wear the stainless steel bracelet. It boasts a 3-row design with a security folding clasp and extension. Upon examination, I found the bracelet to be devoid of any sharp edges, offering substantial links that exuded a pervasive sense of quality.
Oris has incorporated a ceramic insert into the unidirectional bezel of this timepiece—a remarkable specification typically found in more expensive watches. It is delightful to witness this level of detail on a watch that remains accessible in terms of price.
Manipulating the screw-in security crown proved to be effortless. Positioned between two crown protectors, it effectively reduces the risk of damage to the winding stem. Oris has ingeniously designed these crown protectors, ensuring functionality without compromising the watch’s aesthetic appeal. In fact, they strike a balance by being unobtrusive while contributing to a pleasingly masculine appearance.
The movement
Oris has taken a departure from tradition by incorporating an exhibition caseback in the design of the Oris Aquis Date. The esteemed Swiss brand acknowledges the appeal of showcasing the inner workings of a timepiece in their unadorned splendor, catering to the curiosity of potential owners like myself. As an enthusiast with a deep appreciation for horology, I find this particular feature highly gratifying.
Powering the Oris Aquis Date is the Oris 733, an automatic movement that draws inspiration from the Sellita SW200-1. With a balance frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and 26 jewels, this movement ensures precise timekeeping. Its lone barrel grants a commendable 38 hours of uninterrupted operation, offering a remarkable degree of autonomy.
Taking a glimpse at the watch from its rear, the eye is immediately drawn to the bold and vibrant red oscillating weight. While the finishing of the bridges and other components may appear understated, lacking embellishments like perlage, Côtes de Genève, and blued screws, it is important to note that this should not deter potential buyers from considering this timepiece. One must remember that expecting meticulous high-end movement finishing on a watch that boasts the aforementioned qualities and comes at such an attractive price point would be somewhat unrealistic.
Closing remarks
I frequently write about exceptional examples of high-end watchmaking, showcasing the epitome of craftsmanship and artistry. I am endlessly fascinated by the intricate finishing, complex features, and masterful decorative techniques where perfection is paramount and price is of little consequence. However, I acknowledge that the world of tourbillons and minute repeaters remains distant and inaccessible for most people.
Since 1904, Oris has recognized the desires of ordinary individuals who seek genuine timepieces that embody superb design, tangible quality, durability, reliability, and value. The Oris Aquis Date embodies all of these qualities. Its dial is effortlessly legible and tastefully adorned with subtle details.
The meticulously crafted case is a work of beauty. Each link of the bracelet exudes solidity, and the folding clasp ensures a secure fit on the wrist. The case boasts a flawlessly smooth finish, and the ceramic bezel adds an elegant touch with its subtle luster. Oris has skillfully blended functionality with style, as evidenced by the crown protectors positioned on the right side of the case.
The Oris 733 movement is Swiss-made and its automatic winding mechanism makes it ideal for everyday wear. I cannot conceal my admiration for this timepiece. The unique green hue of the dial adds a touch of individuality, while the sturdiness of the case offers practicality in abundance. Despite its numerous attributes, the Oris Aquis Date remains competitively priced. It is truly an exceptional watch that offers remarkable value for its comparatively modest cost.
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